By Jennie Douglas
Special to the Press-Telegram

An elegant potted palm ringed with crimson geraniums stands by the door at La Española in Harbor City.  When we last visited this fascinating Spanish deli five years ago at its Lomita location, it was the smallest of stores with room for perhaps six slender customers, but everything’s different now.  They have new spacious quarters with ample room to display all of their culinary treasures, and there are tables for those who can’t wait to eat until they get home.

The wonderful meats are made on the premises in a USDA-inspected kitchen, where inspectors arrive daily to check conditions.  The most famous is the lyrical Serrano ham, the sweetest ham in the world.  It’s a close cousin of the Italian prosciutto, and it’s sliced thinly and eaten the same way.  It’s marvelous with figs or cantaloupe, yet I like it best on crusty bread with olive oil and a slice of a vine-ripened tomato.   Serrano ham costs $5.95 for 8 oz., but you’ll find that a little goes a very long way.

Even better to my way of thinking is the exquisite lomo embuchado, $6.15 for 8 oz., and it’s a remarkable achievement.  It’s marinated cured pork loin that has been hung for months.   If you make only one purchase here, I urge you to try this unique pork.  It’s definitely in the same class with the best sashimi, caviar and lobster.

They’re turning out thousands of interesting sausages, too.  You might want to try the authentic Spanish chorizo, $4.50 lb. Mexican chorizo is made with fresh pork, while the Spanish version uses smoked pork.  Both are available here as well as Spanish white sausages, $2.60 lb., blood sausage (much better than it sounds) and cute, little cocktail sausages, $5.45 lb.

Since it opened in 1982, La Española has prospered steadily.  They send daily shipments all over the country, and have regular customers in Mexico, Central America and the Philippines.  They also sell to luxury hotels and fine restaurants, including La Paella and the Beverly Hilton, both in Beverly Hills.  I figure that if it’s good enough for Beverly Hills, it might just be good enough for us.  I was pleased to learn that our favorite Spanish restaurant, Alegria in downtown Long Beach, is a satisfied La Española customer.

The best time to visit La Española is on Saturday because that’s the day they make paella, and it’s ready to serve at precisely 12:30 p.m.  This is the national dish of Spain, originally a picnic dish, cooked out-of-doors over an open fire and eaten straight form the pan.   Paella is a flexible entrée (you can choose any combination of meats and seafood), but at La Española they’ve selected chicken, sausage, mussels, shrimp and calamari.   A 20 oz. serving costs $4.95.

There are paella mixes as well as the authentic ingredients to make it from scratch.  The traditional steel, handled paelleras are available in six different sizes, but the 15-inch diameter one, $15, is probably the most practical.  They stock the short-grained rice you’ll need, Spanish olive oil and saffron.  There’s good news as far as saffron, the world’s most expensive spice, is concerned.  Five years ago it cost $4.95 a gram, but today it’s down to a modest $3.10.  You can’t make paella without real saffron.   It’s not used simply for its golden color, but its heady aroma and exotic bittersweet flavor are absolutely vital in producing an authentic paella.

We were equipped with a list because I had sent for the free La Española catalog.  It’s a great help in jogging your mind, and the cover is colorfully illustrated with ideas for serving the splendid food.  I needed a tin of Spanish paprika, slightly stronger than the Hungarian, and their dried codfish is skinless and boneless.  I had to have a jar of the olives, stuffed with anchovy.  We’ve had them before, and it’s an experience that isn’t easily forgotten.  The anchovy tang is muted, blending perfectly with the olives.

Those were the necessary purchases, but then impulse buying took over.  The pickled garlic with herbs was the first thing we opened when we arrived home.  The soft cloves of garlic practically melt in your mouth, and we loved that herby tang.  We’d forgotten the lovely Manchega cheese, the most famous of Spain’s unusual cheeses.  It’s made from sheep’s milk, ideal for snacking and with excellent melting qualities.  We also chose a box of the chewy turron, a tasty nougat candy made with toasted almonds, honey and egg whites.  Part of the joy of shopping at La Española is the merry crew of workers.  Juana (she’s the boss!) and Frank Faraone are the cordial owners.   Everybody’s busy, yet they’re happy to answer any questions, and, of course, each is an authority on the beguiling Spanish cuisine.

We live in a Mediterranean climate, so it’s not surprising that the Spanish cuisine seems tailor-made for our relaxed Southern California lifestyle.  These days we know all about tapas, and cherish a perfect paella.  Americans are learning, and both the learning and eating are fun at the inspiring La Española.

Day Trip

La Española, 25020 Doble Ave., Harbor City, (310) 539-0455.

Drive north on Pacific Coast Highway.  Turn right at Vermont, the first light after you pass the Harbor 110 Freeway.  Turn left at Lomita Blvd.  And left again at Doble Ave.  The deli will be on your left in the first block.  Free parking lot.

La Española is open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday.